How To Pass The MOT
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How To Pass The MOT
Around 40% of cars fail their MoT at the first attempt - often for something trivial like a blown light bulb or a worn-out wiper blade. Obviously you can't examine your car to the same standard as an actual garage, but working through the following checks will help you to identify some of the possible problem areas before taking the car for the test. You'll find more details in any Haynes Owners Workshop Manual.
Step 1:
Clean the car thoroughly inside and out. If it looks well cared-for, the tester may be more likely to pass a borderline component.
Step 2:
Check that the handbrake works correctly. If you have to pull the lever a long way up (too many clicks), the cable may need adjustment.
Step 3:
Check the brake fluid level. Press the brake pedal and make sure that it doesn't feel spongy. If it does, there may be air in the hydraulic system which must be removed by bleeding.
Step 4:
'Bounce' each corner of the car in turn. If the car doesn't settle after 1 or 2 bounces, the shock absorbers are worn out. Check for excessive play at the steering wheel, indicating wear in the linkage.
Step 5:
There must be no cracks or chips in the windscreen within the driver's field of view (small stone chips are OK). Rearview mirrors must be in good condition, and it must be possible to adjust them.
Step 6:
Check the horn, the windscreen washers and wipers. Renew worn wiper blades and top up the washer reservoir. Also check the operation of all external lights The number plates and all lights must be clean and undamaged.
Step 7:
Check the tyres for damage. Use a tread depth gauge to check the amount tread remaining. The legal minimum is 1.6mm, although it's better to fit new tyres well before that.
Step 8:
Check the exhaust by starting the engine and holding a cloth over the tailpipe. You will be able to hear if the system is leaking. Repair or renew as necessary.
Step 9:
Check the seat belts for fraying, cuts or other signs of damage. The front seats must be securely attached and the backrests must lock in the upright position.
Step 1:
Clean the car thoroughly inside and out. If it looks well cared-for, the tester may be more likely to pass a borderline component.
Step 2:
Check that the handbrake works correctly. If you have to pull the lever a long way up (too many clicks), the cable may need adjustment.
Step 3:
Check the brake fluid level. Press the brake pedal and make sure that it doesn't feel spongy. If it does, there may be air in the hydraulic system which must be removed by bleeding.
Step 4:
'Bounce' each corner of the car in turn. If the car doesn't settle after 1 or 2 bounces, the shock absorbers are worn out. Check for excessive play at the steering wheel, indicating wear in the linkage.
Step 5:
There must be no cracks or chips in the windscreen within the driver's field of view (small stone chips are OK). Rearview mirrors must be in good condition, and it must be possible to adjust them.
Step 6:
Check the horn, the windscreen washers and wipers. Renew worn wiper blades and top up the washer reservoir. Also check the operation of all external lights The number plates and all lights must be clean and undamaged.
Step 7:
Check the tyres for damage. Use a tread depth gauge to check the amount tread remaining. The legal minimum is 1.6mm, although it's better to fit new tyres well before that.
Step 8:
Check the exhaust by starting the engine and holding a cloth over the tailpipe. You will be able to hear if the system is leaking. Repair or renew as necessary.
Step 9:
Check the seat belts for fraying, cuts or other signs of damage. The front seats must be securely attached and the backrests must lock in the upright position.
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